Reikan Focal Pro Vs Lensalign Software And TAP
LensAlign MkII with FocusTune V4. Reikan FoCal FoCal 2.0 Pro Lens Calibration 134.88 Tamron TAP-in Console for Nikon F Lenses 59. The FoCal software and TAP-in Console will add another 200+/-, but will work with all of Tamron’s newer lenses. Currently, the single setting is working well with this new G2 lens across all three bodies.
So one afma is not always the best for all conditions.Details: If you shoot a Nikon or a Canon SLR camera with high resolution, this software is highly recommended. Many lenses require a different afma setting for close shooting v infinity shooting. However, you will greatly rack up shutter actuations with it as well as hair loss from frustration and not convinced it can consistently give you the best afma for all shooting conditions.
In that respect you can uncover wear and get it fixed before it costs you a shoot.The two software-assisted options for performing micro focus adjustments seem to be Reikan FoCal and LensAlign, and Im just wondering if anyone has any. The software will reveal af backlash and other worn parts that you just cant visualize with any other tool. I rarely use Focal anymore except to validate my lenses and camera are working as good as they were when i bought them. It is erratic for my long telephotos at narrow aperture with extenders (800mm f/8, 840mm f/9) because the long distances needed and the depth of field at those distances - the quality.
If you keep the camera on the tripod and use live view autofocus, it should be near perfect, you can dial in AFMA numbers until it looks correct, at 5 or 10x magnification but this is the worst method.I would check my lenses carefully before sending anything to Canon, Set up the Tripod in front of a flat target or surface, you can print one if necessary, the surface needs something for the focus system to grab.Using Live phase detect or DPAF, defocus the lens, focus and capture a image. If the entire wall is oof, then AFMA is likely needed. They do not focus on the slanted ruler, but rather on a flat surface with a slanted ruler next to it.A brick wall photo can reveal lens issues when one side is oof and the other is not, for example. A lenscal is pretty much required anyway to validate what focal is telling you so why not just use it.Using Grass Check AF is going to be unreliable, because you are not forcing the AF system to focus at the point you want it to, it is larger than that little square in the viewfinder and can be focused on something outside that box.The lens targets, at least the good ones, are designed to force the AF system to focus on a known point.
The rate of damage in shipping is too high for me. If all of the lenses result is poorly focused images, I'd send the camera and lenses in.I would avoid shipping anything that does not need repair. There is no need to send in the camera, they can be off, but its unusual, and focusing correctly on all but one lens supports that it is fine. If you find one of three lenses is different, send the lens in, telling them what you did, and the camera model.In my case, Canon used a identical Camera model that was calibrated and adjusted the lens to match it, or that's what the paper said that I received. Unless the images are noticably different, there is no issue. Now, use the normal phase detect focus, and repeat, defocusing before each shot.Ideally, the live view shots should be focused the same as the phase Detect shots.
Now with my 1DX2 I've been baffled by what seems to be inconsistent focus performance.What I seem to have discovered is that one can't rely on the relative focus distance behind and in front to be equal (clarification, please). I wish Canon did the same on return shipments, their packing methods seem hit and miss.Had great success with my 6D just shooting a target and tweaking. It cost more to ship a large box, but having it arrive undamaged at Canon is very important in avoiding a big repair bill.I ship hundreds of very sensitive electronic items a year, and this process reduces damage in shipping to a tiny amount. I've never had shipping damage that way. Then they go in a inner box which has another 2 inches of foam or bubble around it, and I usually put 3/8 hard foam sheet all around the interior of the box to make it more rigid.
Reikan Focal Pro Vs Lensalign How To Explain A
The difference is that only the main target will have to be in perfect focus with first and third located at the DoF near and far limits be both EQUALLY out of focus.FF sensor, F2.0, 200mm focal length, distance to target:10.00 meters distance to subject ( x50 focal length)We position the main target at: 10m to camera's sensor planeWe position the first target 1 inch to the left from the main and 14cm forward at NEAR DoF limit (9.86m to the camera)We position ther third target 1 inch to the right from the main target and 14cm backwards at FAR DoF limit (10.14m to the camera)I use central AF point to focus on the main target and take the shot.I then inspect the shot on computer screen and compare out of focus levels for each target.You can also use you camera LCD to inspect the image at 1:1 pixel ratio. 1 inch away from each other with the first one moved forward to the NEAR DoF LIMIT and third one moved backwards to the FAR DoF LIMIT.You will see all 3 targets in your viewfinder just fine. Other combos have behaved better.Back in the day when Reikan Focal was not available to me, I discovered precise AFMA method that requires 3 targets and based on DoF values specific to the focal length, aperture, sensor size and distance to subject.I also wanted to avoid the dreaded ruler method as with longer lenses and longer distances in its becoming really imprecise and cumbersome.3 targets to be positioned side by side, approx. This kind of situation seems to be happening to me too often.I also feel that I'd rather choose my setting based on my typical outdoor usage - distance, ISO etc., rather than sticking with prescribed setup parameters.These comments are relative to 400 DO II X2 III only, since that's the one I want to be as absolutely close as possible. Another thing is that objects behind the plane of focus are further away so they will not present as well as closer objects assuming they are somewhat covered by the depth of field.After a couple frustrating partial days of fooling with this I finally decided to use the fore and aft objects as a rough guide only but finally just choose the AFMA value that gives me the best focus sharpness at the plane where the focus square displays.I don't know how to explain a shot at +11 being quite nicely in focus when the value I've finally settled on is +3 -> +4.
It is quick and straight forward to use. Decrease AFMA value (-).Repeat until the first and the third targets equally out of focus and the main target is perfectly in focus.I use DoF calculator app on my iPhone for DoF value calculations. Increase AFMA value (+).If the third and and the main targets are the sharpest, then lens back focused.
I do use it successfully on occasion, but mostly to place the AF point, then the camera tracks the subject as I compose better. I'm wondering if improvements in PDAF speed might come to a 6D MK II also.Touch to focus is nice on a tripod, I'm in doubt about using it hand held, its not easy with my 1GX MK II, and its small and light to hold in one hand. I suspect the PDAF for a FF body like the 5D MK IV to be slower because focus of a FF needs to be more precise. I'd want to compare AF speed with the 80D. My interest in a 77D is based on the possibility of using it as a mirrorless in live view mode where its lack of AFMA doesn't matter.
A M5 is something I'm also considering as a replacement. My 1GXII gets used because its small and easy to take with me, but it seems pretty limited in image quality unless lighting is perfect.
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